Type And Quantity Of Weft Yarns Used When Weaving Asian Woven Rugs

Posted on October 8, 2009 by admin

An Asian woven rug design is quite primitive all over the world; throughout history man has always felt the need to decorate the things he made and hence weaving is a well recognized craft.

Wool is the weft yarn most used in hand woven area rug weaving and it gives a good hardwearing surface. Choose a worsted spun yarn with medium twist and of fairly coarse fibers.

For the hand woven jute rug, the two-ply rug wool used in the carpet trade is suitable for weaving flat woven area rugs. This can be obtained, in a large range of colors, direct from carpet makers. The same yarn is made up into six-ply specifically for red woven rug weaving and can be bought from weavers’ supply houses.

Pile yarn

Scandinavian suppliers produce special yarns for knotting, called rya and floss yarns. These are a mixture yarn and do not shed their fibers as much as an ordinary woolen yarn when used for the same purpose of the swick woven rug dunbar brown designs.

Working out quantities

When making woven treasures rug, sometimes it is difficult to obtain warp yarn of sufficient weight and a finer thread has to be used, doubled, threefold or sometimes even fourfold. Ideally, rug warp should be at least four-ply.

To calculate the quantity of warp yarn required for an oval woven rug, multiply the number of ends per inch (usually between four and six) by the width of the rug, which will give you the number of warp ends.

Multiply the number of warp ends by the length of the warp — this is the finished length of the round woven rug, plus any wastage taken up on the loom. This will give you the entire warp length needed. Divide this number by the number of yards per pound in the chosen warp yarn and you will arrive at the correct weight of yarn. The yards per pound are usually marked on the packet.

The weft poundage is calculated in a similar way. Work small samples of weaving on a warped frame loom and multiply the number of weft threads per inch by the length of the Asian woven rug. Allowance also has to be made for the yarn to curve over and under the warp threads — this is called the “take-up”. As an approximate guide: half pound wool will work one square foot of rug. Weft thread is supplied either in singles, two-ply or six-ply.

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Different Yarns Used To Create Mexican Woven Rugs

Posted on October 7, 2009 by admin

Mexican woven rugs are well sought after, because they are made from fabrics that are regarded highly as sophisticated. Weavers regard yarns, their raw materials, as a source of inspiration. The feel of them as well as the appearance — can lead a weaver to experiment in both colors and textures and most of us feel that there could never be enough time to try out every combination of yarn.

The creative possibilities in weaving are endless but in some woven jute rugs weaving there is a certain limitation in the choice of warp. Although almost any yarns can be used for the weft, the warp in rug weaving must be exceptionally strong, always try not to make cheap woven rugs.

Weft-face and plain weave rugs

In a weft-face machine woven rug, the warp is completely covered by the weft and shows only at the ends in the fringes. As it is covered the warp yarn does not affect the appearance of the finished terra echo woven area rug, but it does influence the handling and the way the rug lies on the floor.

The best warp yarns for these chilewich woven rugs are cotton, wool, linen, hemp, jute, ramie and some synthetics. All of these are obtainable from weavers’ suppliers and makes quality products for the woven rug gallery.

Cotton yarn warps use to make Mohawk home Asian woven rug, is good for beginners to use as it is easy to control, but when you have gained a little experience, try one of the cotton twines like those used in the fishing industry. These are more tightly spun and are quite elastic. The elasticity of cotton yarns is particularly helpful to beginners because, even if the warp isn’t perfectly made, it will still weave satisfactorily. Cotton yarn is also easy to dye if a colored fringe is preferred to the natural white in the natural woven rug.

Linen, hemp and ramie yarns are smooth and glossy and the wool weft slips easily down on the warp. They provide firmness and have a natural, pleasant color which looks good as a fringe on the outdoor woven rug. Linen has little elasticity and the warp must therefore be perfectly made.

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Preparing The Weft For Weaving Plastic Woven Rugs

Posted on October 6, 2009 by admin

The plastic woven rugs are used on a wide scope and are still needing of careful handling just as any other rugs. Once the warp is ready on the loom it remains only to prepare the weft so that you can start weaving. The ‘weft yarn’, which you will have purchased either on a spool or in a skein, has to be transferred to a shuttle of some kind. There are different types and sizes of shuttles when making plastic woven rug and the one used depends both on the type of loom and the design of the kitchen woven rug.

Shuttles

Stick shuttle
The instructions given for constructing a home constructed frame loom—includes the making of a stick shuttle and this can be made to any length. When making Mohawk home Asian woven rug ideally a shuttle should be at least four inches longer than the width of the weaving. Stick shuttles are used when the shed opening is narrow — such as on frame looms.

To fill a stick shuttle, the wool for the Mohawk home Asian woven rug collection coconut is wound around one prong and then around the whole shuttle. It should not be overfilled or it will not pass easily through the shed.

Long rug shuttle
The long rug weaving shuttle is used when the Mohawk home keytex woven rug chocolate is to be woven in a plain color in broad stripes extending the full width of the warp. This shuttle is thirty-four inches long and is wide enough to take a generous amount of wool, leaving the pointed end free to slide easily through the warp. The wool is wound across the open end, around the inner prong, returning down the same side.

Small shuttle
This type of shuttle is used when a number of different colors are being used in weaving. The shuttles can be left hanging without becoming unwound and is a convenient size for weaving small blocks of color on oriental hand woven rugs. The pointed end of the shuttle is designed for beating down the weft.

When making hand woven area rugs the wool is wound on the small shuttle as follows: with the wool on the right-hand side of the shuttle hanging point down, place the first finger of the right hand behind the wool, twist the finger downwards over it, picking up a loop and slip this off the finger over the shuttle. Continue in this way until the shuttle is full; the wool will unwind freely as required to make beautiful country woven rugs.

Finger hank:
On frame looms particularly, a finger hank can be used instead of a shuttle. This is made by winding the wool on the hand in a figure eight.  They unwind easily from the centre. Finger hanks are sometimes used in making pile hand plastic woven rugs as they are flexible and easy to work around a pile gauge.

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Different Settings In Weaving Hand Woven Cotton Rugs

Posted on October 5, 2009 by admin

When you are making hand woven cotton rugs, the number of working warp ends to the inch is called, in weaving terminology, the sett. To decide how many warp ends will be put on the loom, you must first decide how wide the loom woven rag rug is to be and how dense.

If the warp threads are too thin for the weft, the hand woven wool rug will be rather sloppy and you will be able to poke your finger through it easily. If the warp is too thick for the weft, the finished woven vinyl rug will be rather stiff and hard and the weft will not be able to cover the warp properly.

The aim is, of course, to make a firm woven sisal rug of good texture. This is done by adjusting the balance between the amount of warp ends per inch and the amount of weft per inch.

For wilton woven rugs, if a thick warp yarn is available it can be used singly, but it is more usual to use two, three or four warp threads together as one working warp end. It is usual to have between three and six working ends per inch in the warp. In general, the thicker the working ends per inch or the greater their number, the thinner the weft yarn must be for natural woven rugs.

The selvedge
During weaving of the machine woven rugs, the outside warp ends get quite a lot of wear and therefore need to be strengthened. The area of strengthening is called the selvedge. In woven rug weaving, this area is particularly necessary because the woven throw rugs edges are naturally given a lot of wear and tear in use.

To make a selvedge on a narrow leather woven rug, the two outside warp ends are worked together. In a wider woven rug, the four outside warp ends are worked together.

The texture of the weave in hand woven cotton rugs has to be considered from two points of view, the artistic and the technical designs of cloth.

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How To Manage the Warp On The Loom When Making Cotton Woven Rugs

Posted on October 4, 2009 by admin

In making cotton woven rugs the simplest equipment available for the purpose is a set of warp pegs which are fixed to a table with clamps. Two of the pegs are fixed at each end of a measured distance and the yarn is wound between them, thus making a cross. The function of the crosses is to keep the warp threads in order until they are all safely on the loom.

The warp is tied to the first clamp at one end, A, taken outside B to the other end, goes between C and D, round D, between C and D again, back to the other end on the outside of B and between A and B. It is then taken round A, between A and B again and so to the other end. The winding of the cotton woven rug continues this way until the required number of warps has been wound round the pegs, finishing at A. Every time the yarn reaches point A, an even number of threads has been wound.

When making a woven rug to count the number of ends wound, loop a length of yarn around groups of threads while the winding is taking place. This is done at one side of the warp so that, if there are four ends per inch, each group of four equals two inches.

For the woven area rug the pegs method is not suitable for making a long warp; the pegs would have to be set so far apart that they would be unstable.

For long warps when weaving the woven legend rugs, a rectangular warping frame is the most convenient to use. This is a frame with pegs at set intervals and the cross is wound at each end. The length of the warp is adjusted by winding around all or some of the pegs.

A warping mill is also used by weavers for woven wool rug and this is the quickest and best way of winding a warp, but it is a bulky piece of equipment, needing a lot of space. The mill is an upright box frame that spins on a central pivot and has adjustable positions for the pegs to make the crosses.

Tying the cross
For hand woven wool rugs the cross must be firmly and securely tied before the warp is removed from the warping frame. This can be done in two ways. Tie a length of ribbon around the cross, making sure that the cross is lying correctly and that the ribbon is securely tied. Alternatively, tie the warp firmly with ribbon in four areas near to the cross. It does no harm if beginners tie crosses in both ways when making the hand woven rug.

Chaining the warp
The warp is next removed from the warping frame by chaining it. This prevents it getting damaged and keeps the ends in order. To do this, hold the warp in the left hand and slip it from the starting pegs.

Put the right hand over the top of the warp and pass it under the warp, pulling it gently towards you, having made a loop in the warp. Grasp the warp in the right hand as if you were shaking hands with it and pull the warp through the first loop. Slip the hand through this loop and grasp the warp again; pull the warp through the loop again. Go on chaining this way until the cross at the other end of the pegged warp is reached. Slip the warp off the pegs CD. The warp is now ready to be wound on to the loom for the flat woven rug.

Winding the warp on to the loom
For the hand woven rag rugs two shed sticks are put in the back cross and held together with short lengths of string.  The warp is now threaded through the reed to space it and tied on to the back bar, which is attached to the canvas and so to the back roller. The warp is wound at tension on to the back roller with sticks inserted at every round to keep it lying evenly in position. The cross is transferred behind the reed, new cross sticks inserted.

To finish the cotton woven rugs, the ends are then threaded through the heddles, two on each frame, the reed re-threaded and the warp tied to the stick attached to the bottom roller in a slip knot.

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How To Use Warping Technique When Making Woven Rugs

Posted on October 3, 2009 by admin

During the weaving process to make woven rugs, warping is an important technique that has to be done. The warp must be tied as taut as possible and the threads must lie parallel with each other so that the weft can pass over and under them with ease. The way in which the warp is attached to the loom varies according to the construction of the loom.

Warping the rigid frame loom
In the designing a hand woven rug on a rigid frame loom, each length of warp yarn makes two warp ends as it is looped at the top of the frame and tied at the bottom. The required number of lengths is therefore half the number of warp ends.

The length of each piece of warp yarn is twice the height of the frame, plus twice the length of the intended fringe of the woven rag rug and the amount needed to tie the knot on the bottom of the frame.

Also, for the woven area rugs in the rigid frame type of loom with grooved bars, the warp thread lies in a groove at the top of the frame, is brought down and is tied in a reef knot under the lower grooved warp bar.

In the home-made frame loom, both ends of warp yarn are looped over the top bar, brought down over the bottom bar and taken to the back, each end then being brought out at each side to the front and tying the ends in a single knot of a woven wool rug. The tension is adjusted by pulling the two ends firmly upwards, and completing the reef knot, or making a half bow.

Warping the adjustable frame loom
For the round woven rugs, the warp yarn is first wound into a ball. Tie the end of the yarn temporarily to the bottom bar. Wind it up and over the top and under the bottom bars continuously, until the required width of warp is achieved. Finish the woven rug by winding at the bottom bar. Cut the end of the yarn and tie it to the previous warp end on the bottom bar. Undo the beginning knot and tie it to the next warp end on the bottom bar.

The warp tied in this way is continuous, so that the weaving can be moved round on the frame. The weaving is done on the threads at the front of the loom and so by moving the warp round as weaving proceeds, it is possible to weave a hand woven rug almost twice the length of the frame.

When counting the number of warp ends, remember to count only those lying on the front of the loom—the ones lying at the back must not be counted in.

Warping the two-frame rug loom

This type of loom is designed to hold enough warps for one or more custom woven rugs at one time and as there is always a certain amount of warp wastage in cutting flat woven rug from a loom, it is obviously economic to put on more than one warp at a time.

For woven leather rugs there are several ways that a long warp can be made, but the principle is the same for all methods. First, work out the overall length of the warp, the warp, which is usually on a spool or in a skein, is then wound on a device of some kind so that all the threads are of the same length.

Two crosses are wound in the warp to keep the threads in order and to help in their easy separation when transferring them to the loom. You must be able to count the number of ‘ends’ as this is important to how the finish woven rugs will take shape.

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How The Shed Operates in the Weaving Woven Oriental Rugs

Posted on October 2, 2009 by admin

During the weaving process to make woven rugs, warping is an important technique that has to be done. The warp must be tied as taut as possible and the threads must lie parallel with each other so that the weft can pass over and under them with ease. The way in which the warp is attached to the loom varies according to the construction of the loom.

Warping the rigid frame loom
In the designing a hand woven rug on a rigid frame loom, each length of warp yarn makes two warp ends as it is looped at the top of the frame and tied at the bottom. The required number of lengths is therefore half the number of warp ends.

The length of each piece of warp yarn is twice the height of the frame, plus twice the length of the intended fringe of the woven rag rug and the amount needed to tie the knot on the bottom of the frame.

Also, for the woven area rugs in the rigid frame type of loom with grooved bars, the warp thread lies in a groove at the top of the frame, is brought down and is tied in a reef knot under the lower grooved warp bar.

In the home-made frame loom, both ends of warp yarn are looped over the top bar, brought down over the bottom bar and taken to the back, each end then being brought out at each side to the front and tying the ends in a single knot of a woven wool rug. The tension is adjusted by pulling the two ends firmly upwards, and completing the reef knot, or making a half bow.

Warping the adjustable frame loom
For the round woven rugs, the warp yarn is first wound into a ball. Tie the end of the yarn temporarily to the bottom bar. Wind it up and over the top and under the bottom bars continuously, until the required width of warp is achieved. Finish the woven rug by winding at the bottom bar. Cut the end of the yarn and tie it to the previous warp end on the bottom bar. Undo the beginning knot and tie it to the next warp end on the bottom bar.

The warp tied in this way is continuous, so that the weaving can be moved round on the frame. The weaving is done on the threads at the front of the loom and so by moving the warp round as weaving proceeds, it is possible to weave a hand woven rug almost twice the length of the frame.

When counting the number of warp ends, remember to count only those lying on the front of the loom—the ones lying at the back must not be counted in.

Warping the two-frame rug loom

This type of loom is designed to hold enough warps for one or more custom woven rugs at one time and as there is always a certain amount of warp wastage in cutting flat woven rug from a loom, it is obviously economic to put on more than one warp at a time.

For woven leather rugs there are several ways that a long warp can be made, but the principle is the same for all methods. First, work out the overall length of the warp, the warp, which is usually on a spool or in a skein, is then wound on a device of some kind so that all the threads are of the same length.

Two crosses are wound in the warp to keep the threads in order and to help in their easy separation when transferring them to the loom. You must be able to count the number of ‘ends’ as this is important to how the finish woven rugs will take shape.

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How To Make Woven Rugs From Different Loom Patterns

Posted on October 1, 2009 by admin

There is a wide variety of textiles available to make woven rugs. Woven textiles have developed considerably from the primitive fabrics as looms developed, particularly the draw loom. This led eventually to what is often considered the finest period of hand weaving, producing quality Mohawk home Asian woven rug collection.

How to make handmade woven rugs, depends on the varieties, whether on a small scale as a hobby or on a large scale for commercial purposes. One can make a woven rug in different collections and infusing special patterns such as hand woven neon collection poly shag rug, with your own personal preferences.

Loom woven rugs patterns was once a popular choice, afterwards technique advanced more rapidly than design. With the invention of the Jacquard and the power loom greater facility for changing pattern and increased production to the weaving of large quantities of particularly badly designed cloth. The draw loom, the finest example of a complex tool ever made, is now used by very few weavers to make Mohawk home brick walk woven rug, as its own complexity tends to limit its use and the work is specialized.

On the other hand the contemporary hand weaver has a far greater range of materials dyes to use for a Mohawk home shag starch woven rug than ever before and what is perhaps more important, a much broader outlook. People are far less content to copy what has already been done and are more concerned about expressing their own ideas, for instance in making the Mohawk home keytex woven rug.

Although the obvious field for this type of work is how to make woven rugs— the individually woven wall decoration or rug. There is a considerable scope for design in dress and furnishing textiles that is yet to be broadened in designs such as hand woven shag solo cameral rug.

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